Spring/Summer 2016 Takeover: Peter Copping versus Peter Dundas

When a fashion house decides to employ a designer to helm its creative affairs, there is so much tied to it and it is even more of a bigger deal and responsibility if the label is an iconic one. Personally, I understand what happens on the runway even better when a new creative director comes on board to take a design label in a new direction without necessarily deviating from its roots. From the boys at Public School taking over DKNY (Donna Karan New York) to Alessandro Michele at Gucci, the 2015 season has witnessed a couple of transfers. Yet, the most talked about directorial changes would have to be Peter Copping for Oscar de la Renta and Peter Dundas for Roberto Cavalli.

The most obvious of the many strings tied to taking over at a fashion house is that you consistently have to deliver. From following the existing aesthetic while introducing a new direction, to creating garments that are both artistically and commercially appealing, it brings to mind the saying “uneasy lies the head that wears the crown”. Many designers have successfully been able to achieve more than their predecessors, like Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton, Jason Wu at BOSS and Olivier Rousteing (who was also nurtured by Peter Dundas) at Balmain. Sadly, the same cannot be said of Alexander Wang for Balenciaga who was fired even before the end of his contract.

Peter Copping was announced the Creative Director at Oscar de la Renta in October 2014 just before Mr de la Renta’s passing. His resumé at the time was worth the envy of every young designer, as he had worked with French couturier Christian Lacroix, Sonia Rykiel, Louis Vuitton under the creative direction of Marc Jacobs and Nina Ricci. Likewise, Peter Dundas worked in the capacity of Chief Designer at Roberto Cavalli in 2002 and then worked with Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Emanuel Ungaro, and Emilio Pucci before he moved back to Cavalli.

Showing a lot of expertise in his design techniques, Dundas strategically trades haute couture for a more accessible form of ready-to-wear that is a great mix of street and red carpet.

On the other hand, while I sincerely appreciate Copping’s creativity and the zest to attract followership by introducing a new de la Renta woman not necessarily boxed in by age or style, I am not particularly sure if the late Mr de la Renta would have approved of Copping’s S/S 2016 offering.

Needless to say, it takes a lot more than an impressive resumé to strike the perfect balance between one’s grand ideas and another man’s vision. But I look forward to seeing more of the two Peters’ efforts to achieve this fine balance!